Vinous - Score: 93 (2018 May)

The 1978 La Tour Haut-Brion has long been a "hidden gem" of the decade, one that I drank regularly when you could pick them up for a song. This last example, served against the 1978 La Mission Haut-Brion, testifies a wine that clearly has a 50-year lifespan, even though it now seems rather rustic compared to its "sibling". The nose offers blackberry, tobacco, black olive, hints of thyme and sage that open in the glass though never achieves the same amplitude as the La Mission. The palate is very well balanced and surprisingly dense and weighty. Nowadays, it does not have grace of elegance, but there is real personality. Touches of tobacco, burnt toast and bay leaf towards the grippy finish. After 30 minutes, true, it does begin to fray at the seams, but it remains a thoroughly delicious 1978 that will please those who adore classic Pessac-Léognan. Tasted at a private dinner in London (ex-château bottle).